LITTLE could Ist Viscount Horatio Nelson have known, as he lay dying on the Victory, that his heroic record was such that one day he would be immortalised in a new wine bar and restaurant in Neston's High Street.

But such is the case. Open just six months, the warm and welcoming bar and eaterie is a worthy tribute to the First Sea Lord. I don't think they sell any grog, but there is a fine selection of Continental beers starting at just £1.

French-trained chef Mark Pickering has worked in Paris, London and The Lakes, as well as doing a stint with the fabulous Roux Brothers. He and his team say they simply 'aim to provide a good selection of decent food in a very, very relaxed atmosphere.' They also promise affordable quality food and no snooty waiters looking down their noses at people!

Nelson's is open every day except Monday from 11am to 2pm and 5.30-11.30pm. The new lunchtime menu features all sorts of light bites from pasta and sandwiches to traditional favourites like fish and chips (the only ones you'll find there, by the way.)

The dinner menu changes every six weeks and offers some pretty adventurous combinations of tastes and textures.

Nelson's also has an extensive calendar of special events, from the recent Burn's Night celebrations to big dos for Shrove Tuesday, St Patrick's Day, American Independence and, of course, the Battle of Trafalgar in October.

Look out for a cooking demo on February 26 which will have the civic seal of approval when the Mayor of Ellesmere Port & Neston, Coun Joyce Walker, attends.

Another highlight is the ticket-only Fantasy Wine League tastings organised by Oddbins, usually on the first Monday of every month. The next is on March 3, if you are tempted.

The Sunday menu, served from noon to 2pm and 6.30-9pm, features a choice of smoked salmon salad, soup, tomato & mozzarella salad or mushrooms sauteed in garlic with salad, followed by local lamb, roast beef and Yorkshire pud, home-made tagliatelle or escalope of salmon with hollandaise.

The dining area is welcoming, clean and simple, with whitewashed walls and plain pine furniture . . . but as usual your Dining Outers had eyes only for the menu.

I started with Salad of Smoked Duck (£3.40), unfussily served with salad and vinaigrette, while my friend had salad of Warmed Goats Cheese (£3.55), tangy and fresh.

My main course was a brill piece of brill (£9.10), again simply served on a tarragon-laden Bearnaise sauce. My friend, a lapsed vegetarian, tackled the decidedly meaty Rack of Lamb with a Herb Crust (£8.95). Both came with boiled new potatoes, carrots, broccoli and cauli.

The staff are inordinately proud of one of their puds: White Chocolate Terrine with a Dark Chocolate Sauce - even though we ordered something else, we got an extra sample of this delightful ice-cream concoction anyway. My official dessert was Hazelnut Gallette, two circles of nutty pastry sandwiching a tangy combination of apple, sultanas and peel. Lovely. Coffee and Rum Cheesecake certainly tickled my companion's fancy.

So whether you want a drink, light bite or something more substantial, why not sample the warm welcome at Nelson's?

Converted for the new archive on 13 March 2001. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.