I WENT to the Jolly Gardeners for lunch, and it might have some of the best ‘bar snacks’ in Chester.
The Jolly Gardeners is somewhere I’ve spotted many times while driving into the city, at the end of a short stretch of shops as Christleton Road meets Boughton.
The gastropub, set within a handsome mock-Tudor building, with stone floors, fireplaces, a well-stocked wooden bar and comfy benched seating is an ideal bolthole on the edge of the city centre.
However, it’s not just an enjoyable place to sip a quiet pint – though of course you can do that – it also has some fantastic food, evidenced by its Good Food Guide 2025 sticker which is proudly displayed on the front door.
The ground floor is reserved for walk-ins and so I chose a small table towards the back of the pub, adjacent to the bar, and selected a trio of dishes from the menu.
Not to put down pork scratchings or dry roasted peanuts, but two of these, the fries with aioli (£5) and the cheeseburger (£12), can be found on the ‘bar snacks’ menu, seen above the fireplace.
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The third, a peri peri hispi cabbage, with whipped ricotta and almonds (£10) was part of a tempting selection of small plates.
The cheeseburger was an ideal size with a smashed patty which was crispy at the edges but still juicy in the middle.
Crisp white onions under a brioche bun and a tangy burger sauce with melted cheese, it felt indulgent but not over-rich.
The homemade skin-on fries were perfectly seasoned with a moreish and garlicky aioli –one portion is enough for two people to share.
However, the star of the show was the hispi cabbage, the earthy root vegetable had a lightly charred flavour, courtesy of the pub’s charcoal grill, which pairs nicely with the warming heat from the peri peri spices.
The smooth and creamy whipped ricotta underneath brought balance, and the toasted almonds added texture and nuttiness.
The Jolly Gardeners promises ‘proper pub food with a British heart and European influences’ and they’ve struck a great balance with these dishes, pairing quality meats and seasonal vegetables with a continental flavour.
You can also find mains including bavette steak, Cornish cod, pork belly and celeriac risotto on the menu, for something more substantial.
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